Barbacoa a La Güera

Barbacoa. Sound familiar? Even if you're not from Texas, it should. It is the word from which barbeque was derived. While the method comes to us from the Caribbean via Mexico, the interpretation of exactly what it is and how it's done is very loose. To those of us from around these parts, it is the delectable, unctuous filling for tacos made from....wait for it....a whole cow's head, slow-cooked until it literally falls off the bone. Historically cooked in a pit dug in the ground, and sold at markets only on weekends because of the labor intensive process, the barbacoa of today is more likely beef cheek meat that is slow cooked in an oven or on a grill as health department regulations frown upon the dirt pit and the little episode of mad cow has made obtaining a whole cow's head more difficult than it previously was. Typically, I'm not a huge fan of offal bits. There are some things I do enjoy (like fried chicken gizzards) but for the most part, I steer (sorry for the pun) clear of "variety meats" or other unusual cuts. However, it is these off-cast parts, these peasant foods, that are, often times, some of the best tasting, most surprisingly fabulous foods you'll ever have.

 As I've mentioned before, one of my previous careers afforded me the opportunity to be surrounded by amazing people of amazingly diverse cultures. It is there that I squeamishly listened to my friend and colleague, Gracie, regale me with stories of going to the market on the weekend with her father to get barbacoa. The purveyors were very proud of their product and to prove its freshness and quality, would offer her father an "ojo" or eyeball. Additionally, she spoke of the add-ons that could be purchased: sesos (brains) and lengua (tongue). The stories scared me away from this delicacy for far too long and it wasn't until I returned home from our stint living in Massachusetts that I finally got up the nerve  decided that I would give it a chance. Boy, am I glad I did. This stuff is delicious - tender, almost silky in texture, fabulously flavored meat topped with a few pickled onions and maybe a bit of shredded cotija cheese nestled in a super fresh, tender corn tortilla? one of the best things you'll ever eat.

Because so many places only serve this on the weekends, I decided to try to make it at home. I didn't imagine that El Syd would help me dig a pit in the back yard, nor would he help me to procure a whole cow's head, so beef cheeks and the oven it would have to be. 

What follows is what I've named barbacoa a la güera or white-girl's barbacoa. Try it out and let me know what you think.

Barbacoa a La Güera

• 2.5 lbs beef cheek meat (locally I find this at my HEB Plus; La Michoacana also has this available, if there is one near you. If not, beef brisket would be a good substitute)
• 4 cloves garlic chopped
• 1/2 C strong-brewed coffee -or- 1 tsp instant coffee granules
• 1 Tbsp peanut butter
• 1 dried ancho chili 
• 1 Tbsp honey
• 2 Tsp cominos (cumin)
• 2 Tbsp olive oil (plus more for cooking)
• 1 C broth (either beef or chicken - whatever you have on hand - water if you have neither)
• 3 limes
• For serving:
• corn tortillas
• fresh avocado(s)
• quick pickled onions (recipe to follow)
• fresh cilantro
• cotija cheese (if desired)

1. Clean and trim the beef cheeks. (Be forewarned - this meat is very dark and has a lot of connective tissue. You'll just want to remove any excess from the outside of the meat. Just as with brisket, the fat and collagen will dissolve when slowly braised resulting in that melt in your mouth, fork tender meat that you want for shredding) Place cleaned meat in a container that you will marinate them in. (I like a sealable bag.)
2. Reconstitute the ancho chili: remove stem and seeds from the ancho. Break into pieces and place in about 1/2 cup of hot water.
3. Either in a food processor or in a container deep enough for your immersion blender (my preference) place garlic, coffee (or granules), peanut butter, honey, cumin, 2 tbsp oil, and the chili and soaking water. Pulse into a paste/marinade. Pour over the meat and toss to completely cover/coat the meat. Marinate overnight if possible, but at least, 2-3 hours.
4. Once ready to cook: heat oven to 275F. Heat 2 Tbsp olive oil in a dutch oven. Brown the meat on both sides. Use the broth to rinse the leftover marinade into the dutch oven. Add the juice of 3 limes into the pot. Cover and slow braise in the oven for 3 1/2 hours; turning the meat a couple of times to ensure even cooking in the braising liquid. If the liquid cooks away, add a bit more broth.
5. When meat is fall apart tender (check with a fork) remove from oven and allow to cool slightly. Remove meat from pan and with 2 forks, pull the meat into shreds. (add a bit of the pan juices to the shredded meat - you don't want to miss out on all of that flavorful fatty deliciousness.)
6. To serve: heat tortillas (you may want to use 2 per taco for extra support). Fill with some shredded meat, a slice of avocado, some pickled onions and a little fresh cilantro and cotija cheese if you like. Serve and enjoy!

Quick Pickled Onions

• 1 thinly sliced onion (any type)
• 1 Tbsp salt
• 2 Tbsp sugar
• 1 part water
• 2 parts cider vinegar
• a few stems of fresh cilantro
• 1/4 of a beet (or pickled beet) if you have it (will give the pickles a beautiful hot pink hue)

In a microwavable container, place all ingredients. Cover and microwave for one minute. Stir and microwave for another minute. Stir again and refrigerate overnight or at least until chilled.

While I know absolutely nothing about a slow cooker, this seems like it might be the perfect thing to do in one. Also, depending upon how many people you are serving and how many nights of leftovers you want to have, I would highly recommend doubling this recipe.

Happy Cooking!

sld

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